Extracting THC From Your Trim

After harvesting your medical marijuana, and trimming down to the bud, you are left with 2 piles. One of beautiful buds, and another pile of everything else (leaves, stems, tiny pistils, etc.).

For those who don’t know, the buds can be smoked ;)

However, what is less obvious, is what to do with the rest of the cannabis plant. The entire plant is full of delicious, and potent resins, but sticks and leaves taste bad, so we just have to remove them from the equation.  There are many ways of extracting cannabinoids from plant material. Cannabinoids do not dissolve in water, but they do dissolve easily into fats, alcohols, or other organic solvents (Butane, Hexane, etc.), this interesting set of criteria present a plethora of ways to extract the leftover resin.

1. CannaButter – Cannabinoids dissolve easily into fats. Grind up your trimmings, and bring a couple sticks of butter to a low simmer on the stove. Add the ground up marijuana to the boiling fat slowly. Butter boils around 115°C (239°F), THC boils around 155°C (311°F). Since the butter won’t let the cannabinoids burn, it is recommended you allow them to simmer (with a lid on, but slightly askew) for 3-4 hours to ensure a full extraction. Afterword, allow the solution to cool, and strain out the plant material. You will be left with butter that almost glows green, and will be sure to medicate anything you choose to cook.

Canna Butter

2. Bubble – This process isn’t an extraction, so much as a physical separation. A series of bags with screens in descending sizes designed to separate the trichomes by size. All the bags are placed one inside another in a large plastic container half full of water. Trim is placed inside the top bag (the one with the largest screen), then top off the container with ice.

567  320x240 ice Extracting THC From Your Trim

This freezes the trichomes on the surface, causing them to stand on end. Then stir, mix, beat, snap, and agitate the bag for 15-20 minutes. Make sure the bag stays cold, add more ice if necessary, the lower the temperature, the better. Let everything sit for a few minutes to allow the trichomes to settle.

565  320x240 beater Extracting THC From Your Trim

Then lift the bags out of the water one by one. Each screen will be covered in a layer of wet extract, as we go down through the layers, the quality of the hash increases. To dry your concentrate, you can use a food dehydrator (remember to keep the temperature low), or just leave it out for a couple of days on a piece of cardboard to air dry.

566  320x240 fin Extracting THC From Your Trim

3. BHO – Butane Honey Oil, despite the chemical name, does not rely on butane as a solvent. This is another physical separation, the pressurized gas becomes very cold as it expands, freezing all the oils, and breaking them away from the plant with pressure.

571  320x240 bho Extracting THC From Your Trim

WARNING: Butane is very explosive, so whenever using it, make sure to do so outdoors with good ventilation, and away from anything that could ignite it (hot water heaters, washer/dryer, lawnmower, cigarettes, the list goes on, so be careful!). I once purged a batch of BHO in a pot of boiling water on a gas stove-top. The stove ignited the gasses, the flames reached the ceiling, melting the face off the microwave oven. Instinct says pour water on it, however with an oil fire, water only makes it spread. We finally placed a larger pan onto the fire suffocating it. Fire needs Oxygen. I have been told Baking soda will also suffocate an oil fire. We got off lucky, I know a guy who had his foot blown off when a water heater switched on and turned his extractor into a giant hand grenade.

Warning!

So please, be careful if you attempt this. The concept is to fill a large tube completely with plant material, cap one end, and drill a hole in it the size of the butane nozzle. Be careful to avoid plastics, brass, steel, and galvanized steel, Butane will slightly dissolve any of these materials contaminating the oil. Stainless steel seems to be OK. Also try to use the cleanest gas you can find, at least 5x filtered, any contaminants in the gas will also come through into your oil. Cover the other end with 2 coffee filters, first place a rubber band, then place a worm gear clamp on top of the rubber. Place the rig over a Pyrex collecting dish. Press the can of butane upside down into the capped end. You might want to wear gloves for this part, Butane evaporates at -0.5°C (33°F), so the tube will get quite cold. As the frost on the outside of the tube approaches the other end, you will begin to see a liquid dripping through the filters onto the plate. If your can runs out, but there is still an amber hue to the liquid dripping out, remove the can, wait 15 seconds for the tube to depressurize, then put the next can in it’s place. Once the liquid begins to flow clear, all of the oils have been removed from the surfaces of the plant. Set the Pyrex dish in a bath of boiling water. Make sure not to get any water in the oil, it will be hard to remove. The oil will bubble as the gas evaporates away, after 20-30 minutes all the bubbles should be gone. Make sure to purge butane thoroughly, harsh on the throat, and when burned becomes Carbon Monoxide, which is toxic, and blocks your cannabinoid receptors. Your left with a brown residue on the bottom of the dish, scrape it up, this is your BHO. I must warn you, any chemical processing of medical marijuana has been deemed illegal in California… I don’t know how the other 49 feel about it.

4. Solvent – Many solvents can be used to extract the essential oils from cannabis. Pretty much any of these with a boiling point lower than 150°C will do the job, however some of them (Isopropanol, Acetone, and others) will add an unpleasant taste to your final product. I recommend Ethanol, Cyclohexane, or Heptane, they are relatively stable, and less combustible than butane, although all the same precautions should be taken with any flammable gas. For this extraction you want to grind up the trim. Add equal parts trim and solvent in covered stainless steel pot. Slowly heat the pot until you can feel it bubbling from the outside, and keep it there for half an hour. Boiling agitates the molecules in the solvent, helping to speed up the process. After boiling, allow it to return to room temperature, then cover the pot with cheese cloth, and strain the solution into a new container. Place the new container in a pot of boiling water, make sure the container is elevated off the bottom of the pot or it will not be protected by the water. Purge until you start to see smoke rising from the solution, and smell a pleasant woodsy scent reminiscent of incense. This means you have begun to burn off cannabinoids, but it is way better to waste a little than to smoke solvents. Since Butane only removes oils from the surface, anything run with butane could then be run again with a hot solvent, and will produce more extract. However, as I stated earlier, any chemical extraction has been ruled illegal by a California judge. Despite legal access to both medical marijuana and the solvents, the chemical processing is forbidden. Be sure to check out the legality of these processes in your area.

Solvent Extract

Beneficial Bacteria (Gardening in the Rhizosphere)

The Rhizosphere is the term for the soil directly surrounding a plant’s roots. Over the course of time, billions of different species of bacteria have evolved to fit the needs of our changing planet. There are typically 40 million bacterial cells in a gram of soil and a million bacterial cells in a millilitre of fresh water. Most of these bacteria are completely benign, some are harmful, but a handful of bacteria exist only to aid and bolster plant growth. The important part is knowing which bacteria are going into your soil, and how to properly feed them. Tap water contains chlorine, and will instantly kill any beneficial bacteria, so before looking into beneficial bacteria, you must first be using a reverse osmosis filter (i got mine on eBay).

562  320x240 an voodoojuice label sm Beneficial Bacteria (Gardening in the Rhizosphere)

Many microbial solutions are on the shelves in the hydro store. My personal favorite is Advanced Nutrients’ Voodoo Juice. This very expensive bottle contains an inactive culture of beneficial bacteria. In order to activate it, you simply add water and sugar (preferably unsulfured molasses). I think the best way to explain how this stuff works is one bacteria at a time.

Ingredients:

Bacillus amyloliquefaciens
Bacillus laevolacticus
Bacillus licheniformis
Bacillus megaterium
Bacillus pasteurii
Bacillus pumilus
Bacillus subtilis
Paenibacillus azotofixans
Vitamin B-1 (Thiamine Hydrochloride)

Bacillus amyloliquefaciens – This bacterium is known for it’s ability to break down proteins. It has some mild antibacterial properties as well, but they are less pronounced. Bacillus amyloliquefaciens produces and secretes amylase, an enzyme that breaks down starch into sugars the plant can use. It also secretes an antibiotic protein called barnase, however it also tells the host plant to begin manufacturing a barnase inhibitor called barstar.

Bacillus laevolacticus – Produces phytase in the soil. Phytase is an enzyme that helps break down phytic acid. Phytic acid is found in most commercial agricultural crops. Phytic acid can not be naturally broken down, instead it binds to free floating minerals such as calcium, magnesium, iron, and zinc, and makes them inaccessible to the plant. Phytase breaks down phytic acid into available forms of phosphorus (Phosphorus is an essential ingredient for photosynthesis, and is nescessary to create ATP, chemical energy)

Bacillus licheniformis – Produces protease (binds amino acids into proteins) and amylase (breaks down starch into sugars). By breaking down the plant’s food ahead of time, your plants gets to use its’ energy on more important things like making better buds. Also colonies of bacillus lichenformis near the root zone stimulate root production, as well as secondary stem growth.

Bacillus megaterium – A relatively large bacteria compared to the others, bacillus megaterium is used to aid in decomposition of soil. It is used to break down large complex proteins and sugars into useable food for the plant.

Bacillus pasteurii – Secretes urease, an enzyme that helps break down urea into nitrogen (ammonia) and carbon dioxide for the plant. The ammonia then has to be broken down in the soil before becoming available nitrate.

Bacillus pumilus – Used for its fungicidal properties. Bacillus pumilus colonizes the roots just like a fungus, except it fights off any fungus that comes its way. Since it acts like a fungus, it triggers a SAR (systemic acquired resistance) response. A SAR response is a natural building up of the immune system in response to a perceived attack. Since nothing is attacking, the build up of immune cells is prepared for anything else that may come along.

Bacillus subtilis – Originally discovered by Germany during WWII, Bacillus subtillis was originally used as a cure for dysentery. However in our little ecosystem we use it for its byproducts. Bacillus subtillis secretes large amounts of cytokinins (plant hormone that increases lateral shoot growth). Cytokinins tell the plant to become bushier, and node closer together, both are optimal for budding.

Paenibacillus azotofixans – Nitrogen fixing bacteria. Takes Nitrogen from the atmosphere, and turns it into available ammonia and carbon dioxide in the soil. Both of which are integral to photosynthesis.

Vitamin B-1 (Thiamine Hydrochloride) – Water soluble form of Thiamine. Vitamin B-1 is a simple, safe way to trigger a SAR response. Exposure to Thiamine Hydrochloride causes plants to increase production of immune cells, without actually exposing it to anything harmful.

Related Blogs

The Root Zone

So I began last week researching and comparing beneficial bacteria. However, like the article on foliar feeding, in order to understand all the potential benefits microbes offer, first we have to talk about how plants eat.

When a plants life begins, it cracks open its shell, and sends it’s first set of leaves called cotyledons out to look for light, and it sends down it’s first root to anchor it into the ground. Although it appears the plant is sending out little straws to look for water, it is the structural role of roots that is important.

A tree mirrors it's roots

A tree mirrors it's roots

A tree mirrors it’s root structure. This is what makes your rooting time so important, in order to maximize yeild, you have to grow alot of roots in a small amount of time.

I am not a fan of big plants. They are inefficient, they compete for light, and anything below the canopy becomes susceptible to mold.

Using small plants is much easier, the pots can touch, so there is no wasted space. However these small plants are limited in their production by the size of their root structure.

When a clone is first placed into a new medium it undergoes transplant shock as it’s roots make a new home. This rooting period is basically all the vegetative time necessary. However, since it is so short, lets discuss some ways to minimize shock, and maximize root growth.

1. Chemical Root Pruning – When a plant is placed in a pot, the first thing it does is find the borders. Roots run straight down, and around the sides of the pot. However this causes the stems to likewise stretch out, increasing the distance between nodes. Certain chemicals, such as SpinOut contain Copper Hydroxide which causes roots to die on contact. By spray coating the inside of your pots with Copper Hydroxide, it sets up a barrier for the roots, so they instead grow denser root balls within the soil. Denser roots mean denser plants.

2. Avoid Transplant Shock – Adapting to a new setting is always tough on a plant. First off, and most importantly, be mindful of the roots. Try not to touch any of them as your finger oils will kill roots on contact, as will too much air, so try to minimize transplanting time. Anytime a rooting plant looks dry, it is ready for more water. Transplant shock will occur anytime you change the plant’s growing media, however the quicker you can get past it the healthier your plant will be in the long run.

3. Feeding – Once the plant is in its new media, water with a small amount of dissolved Sugar and a few drops of a rooting hormone (IAA, IBA, and NAA are readily available in comercial cloning gels and liquids, I personally recommend Dyna’s K-L-N). Also trimming off a few of the lower leaves will signal the plant to begin growing roots to support new growth.

4. Ascophyllum nodosum – Also known as Norwegian Sea Kelp, Ascophyllum nodosum is a form of algae known for its agricultural benefits. It is full of plant hormones, and amino acids that get your baby off to the right start. It helps to stabilize chloroplasts for more efficient sugar production. It also increases amylase production which helps the plant break down its food into useable sugars. Ascophyllum nodosum contains large amounts of cytokinins which are hormones your plant already produces that tell it to stay bushy and node closer together, preparing the plant for a strong flowering phase. It is found in many available products including B-52 (a blend of Norwegian sea kelp and water soluble B-vitamins) and Roots Excelerator (which mixes Norwegian sea kelp with beneficial micro-organisms).

5. Beneficial Bacteria – I think advanced nutrients phrased it the best by calling their blend of beneficial bacteria “Voodoo“. Micro-organisms are all around, and have evolved a symbiotic relationship with plants. They have a multitude of different effects ranging to more efficient feeding to fungicides that keep your root zone safe. I will break it down in a little more detail in my next post, but lets suffice it to say this stuff is great!

6. Pinching – The old school way to grow more roots is to stop upward growth, and let the plant fill in some more. The top of the plant is where most of the growth is happening, if you tell the plant that its top is gone, all the branches around it will fight for dominance. But no one wants to lose a perfectly good top node… Place your forefinger and thumb around the stem right below the top set of new leaves, and squeeze slowly until your feel the xylem pop. When you remove your hand you will see the node fall over limp, it’s ok, it’ll grow back. But in the meantime, the branches below it will shoot up to take it’s place. Make sure to feed it Ascophyllum nodosum during this time, as the cytokinin rush will greatly increase the number of heads that come up to become tops.

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